Berry Fruit

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Berry Fruit

Growing Great
Raspberries, Blackberries, Boysenberries, etc.

Berry fruit have become popular in recent years because of the great taste and their proven health properties. Hence, this easily grown group of plants is a must for all gardens.

Nowadays gardens are smaller and it is difficult to find space, but if you choose carefully they can fit. Most berry fruits produce well in smaller sections. Brambles require a fence support, but others form small, easily managed bushes.

For strawberry-specific advice, see our separate Strawberry guide.
For blueberry-specific advice, see our separate Blueberry guide.

Where to Plant

Choose a warm sunny position, sheltered from strong winds. Brambles (raspberries, boysenberries, blackberries) will grow in most soils. Blueberries require a free draining but moist soil which is acidic (do not use lime or dolomite). Strawberries require a free draining soil with lots of compost. In clay soils, raise planting beds and add lots of compost.

  • Hybrid berry ‘Berry Delight’ in a large grow bag, with a supporting frame.
  • Raspberry ‘Tulameen’ in a half wine barrel.
  • Dwarf variety Raspberry ‘Mini Me’ in a pot.

When to Plant

Brambles, blueberries and grapes are available most of the year. Autumn or early spring are the optimum times to plant. Strawberries are available as ‘bare root’ plants in May to June, and as planted punnets or pots, from June to December.

Mulching

This is a highly recommended practice as it suppresses weeds and conserves moisture in the soil. A layer of mulch, (compost, straw or similar) laid on the surface in October will reduce moisture loss and greatly benefit the plants.

Feeding

Berry fruit generally benefit from an annual dressing of lime or gypsum in August. Followed by an application of ‘ican Berry Food’ in September. Additional light dressings of ‘ican Vegetable Food’ or ‘ican Blood & Bone’ through the growing and fruiting seasons is optional to give the plants a strong boost and a bumper crop.

For berry fruits grown in pots, use a container appropriate fertiliser such as ‘ican Fruit Food for Pots’. With regular applications of ‘ican Liquid Citrus & Fruit’ through the growing seasons.

Watering

Many berry fruit can withstand considerable dry periods, but watering will greatly improve the result. This is especially important in sandy soils.

Pests and Diseases

Although there are a number of pests and diseases that can attack berry fruit, they tend to be minor or easily controlled.

  • Raspberries, blueberries, and currants are relatively pest free, although raspberries will get botrytis grey mould if there is wet weather during picking.
  • Boysenberries, blackberries will also get botrytis in wet weather and may suffer from dryberry disease, caterpillars, and mites.
  • Gooseberries are attacked by powdery mildew although some varieties are somewhat resistant.
  • Grapes may suffer diseases and pests in wet or humid weather. The main ones which are likely to affect yield and quality are – Downy mildew, botrytis grey mould, and black spot.

For aphids, mites, and caterpillars spray with Yates Mavrik.
For downy mildew, dryberry, leaf spot, and botrytis grey mould – spray with Yates Fungus Fighter or Botry-Zen.
These sprays are all low toxicity and environmentally friendly, but observe the waiting time between spraying and harvest, on the label.

For a more in depth discussion about berryfruit diseases and treatments, see our Berryfruit Troubleshooting video here.

Pruning

See our video for more on Raspberry Pruning.

Most berry fruits grow on bushes or vines. Hence there is little required to shaping. Pruning for continuous crops, and to keep the plant growth under control, requires some attention.

Raspberries are upright canes and fruit on new seasons growth, which originates from the previous year’s new canes that have emerged from the soil. Therefore in July, cut out all old canes which carried last seasons crop. These canes are distinguished from the one year canes which you want to retain, by their grey colour, and usually by this time dry brittle wood. The canes to be retained tend to be light brown in colour and still very green and alive. These retained canes can then be shortened back to about two thirds their height. Tying 5-6 canes together at the top is a common practice to help keep them upright when new growth starts in spring. The new canes for the following years crop will emerge and grow in late spring-summer. They may require tying up for support.

Boysenberries and Blackberries require to be grown on a fence/wire support for the long, limp canes. They fruit on new season’s growth which originates from vines grown the previous summer-autumn. In July prune out all old canes that carried fruit last season, and tie up all the new canes that have been grown through the autumn.

Currants fruit on wood grown the previous season. Hence, in July prune out all old wood and shorten the bush by about one third.

Gooseberries fruit on spurs which last several years, but best fruit is on young ones, so cut out aged wood.

Blueberries fruit on wood grown the previous season. To keep the bush under control and to maintain good fruiting, prune the growth that has carried the crop as soon as it is picked, in summer. This encourages new growth from a lower level, maintaining a compact bush. Water well in summer to encourage this new growth.

Grapes require a support which could be a fence or pergola. They fruit on new seasons growth. Initial pruning will be to establish the main leaders. Once this has been done, cut back to within one-two buds of the main leaders. This is usually done in July.

Raspberry ‘Ivory’, pruned, in winter dormancy.
Raspberry ‘Ivory’ in full flush.
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